Questions from backyard keepers, answered straight

Coop ventilation for Highveld heat, predator mesh for mongoose and caracal, bedding choices, grit, leg bands for bantams, and getting an incubator or brooder plate ready for the spring hatch. Plain answers from people who keep hens themselves.

Clarifications before you order or build

A few terms on this page get read in more than one way. Here is how we use them, so you know exactly what a product, plan or piece of advice covers before you commit to a coop build or a spring hatch.

Coop plans
Drawings and cutting lists for a single coop build, not a finished structure. Measurements are given in millimetres, and ventilation notes assume you adjust openings for your own site rather than copying them exactly.
Predator mesh
Galvanised woven mesh rated for mongoose and caracal pressure on the frame. It slows and blocks digging and pushing; it is not a guarantee against every predator on every property, and the buried skirt still has to be fitted properly.
Starter kit
A bundled set of the basics for a first small flock: feeder, drinker, bedding and a short care sheet. It is meant for keepers starting out, not a substitute for feed, housing or a brooder you still need to arrange.
Flock advice
Practical answers from people who keep hens themselves, based on what we see in Gauteng, the Free State and the Cape. It is guidance, not a veterinary diagnosis, and a sick bird still needs a vet.
Stock and lead times
Availability shown on a product page reflects what we expect to hold, and bulky items such as 50 kg feed bins or incubators may need a short wait. We confirm the real position when your cart order reaches us.
Seasonal timing
Spring hatch notes assume Highveld and coastal weather patterns, so hatching and brooding dates shift with your local cold snaps and heat waves. Treat the calendar as a starting point, not a fixed schedule.

If something here still reads two ways for your setup, ask before you buy. Reach us at info@gotchickens.com or call +27314007870.

Straight answers before you build, buy or hatch

These are the questions that come up most often at the shop counter and over email. If your situation is not covered here, the same people who answer these also answer the phone.

How much ventilation does a coop need for Highveld heat?

More than most first builds allow. Aim for open vent area above the birds' heads, not at floor level where draughts hit them at night. A ridge gap running the full length of the roof, screened with predator mesh, moves hot air out on a still January afternoon. Shade cloth over the run roof drops the temperature inside by a few degrees without blocking airflow.

Will mongoose or caracal get through standard chicken wire?

Yes. Mongoose push through light wire and dig under a loose skirt, and caracal work at weak corners and door frames. Use galvanised predator mesh with a tight weave, bury a skirt of at least 300 mm around the run, and fit rust-treated hinges and heavy latch plates so a determined animal cannot lever a door open overnight.

How often should feeders and drinkers be cleaned?

Drinkers need a rinse daily and a proper scrub every few days, more often in summer when algae builds up in the water. Feeders get emptied and wiped weekly so old mash does not cake at the bottom. Keep them off the ground on a block or hook to cut down on shavings and droppings landing inside.

Wood shavings or something else for bedding?

Shavings are the easy default: they absorb well, compost cleanly and do not mat like straw. In damp Cape winters, top up more often and check the corners of the coop for wet patches. Some keepers run a thin layer of diatomaceous earth under the shavings to help with mites, but it is not a substitute for cleaning out.

Do laying hens need poultry grit if they get layer feed?

If they range and pick up small stones, maybe not. If they are penned on shavings or hard ground, offer insoluble grit in a small hopper so the gizzard can grind feed properly. Keep it separate from the calcium source, and do not mix it into the feed bin.

Incubator or brooder plate first for a spring hatch?

You need both, but they do different jobs. The incubator holds temperature and humidity for 21 days with turning and candling along the way. Once chicks are dry, move them under a brooder plate, which gives a warm dark shelter and runs cool on top. Lower the plate as they feather out, and keep them out of draughts for the first three weeks.

How do I store a 50 kg feed bin without it going stale?

Keep the bin off a concrete floor, out of direct sun and sealed between fills. Buy what your flock finishes in a few weeks rather than bulk-buying for a small yard, and never tip new feed on top of old. If you are new to hens and unsure what to start with, a starter kit covers the basics so you are not buying piece by piece.

Still stuck on something specific to your yard? Send the details to the advice desk or read how we handle your information in our privacy policy.

Cookie settings

We use cookies to keep the site reliable, remember basic choices, and understand which pages are useful. You can accept, reject, or review the settings before continuing.