What our advice is built on

The references behind Gotchickens come from the ground up: Highveld heat that makes shade cloth and airflow non-negotiable, Free State dust and temperature swings that wear out hinges and nest boxes, and Cape damp that pushes keepers toward raised drinkers and dry bedding. Predator notes name mongoose and caracal because those are the ones that test mesh and latches. Coop plans follow smallstand and farm werf layouts, with cutting lists in millimetres and practical ventilation notes.

Questions keepers actually ask

Most of what we hear comes down to heat, predators, damp bedding and hatch timing. Here are the answers we give most often, based on what works on smallstands and farm werfs in Gauteng, the Free State and the Cape.

How much shade does a Highveld run really need?

More than most people fit at first. A run that faces west needs shade cloth over the roof and along the afternoon side, and the cloth should sit clear of the nest boxes so airflow still moves through. Hens pant and stop laying when the coop bakes, so vents near the roof line matter as much as the cloth itself.

Mongoose keep getting in. Where do I look first?

Check the bottom of the frame before anything else. Mongoose push through gaps under doors and along the base of the mesh, so a buried mesh skirt and a heavy latch plate do more than a taller fence. Caracal test the same corners from above, which is why we size hinges and latches for doors that open every morning.

Wood shavings or something else for the nest boxes?

Shavings work well in dry conditions and are easy to top up. In the Cape, where damp creeps in, keepers do better with raised drinkers and a thin layer they replace often, rather than a deep bed that stays wet. A roll-away nest tray also keeps eggs out of the bedding, which cuts down on dirty shells.

When should I set eggs for a spring hatch?

Work backwards from when you want birds off heat. A backyard incubator run takes about three weeks, then chicks need roughly three to four weeks under a brooder plate before they feather out. Starting in late winter gives you pullets laying before the cold sets in again, and a brooder plate is safer than an open lamp when children help with morning checks.

Do the coop plans suit a smallstand, or only a farm?

Both. The plans are drawn for smallstand and farm werf layouts, with cutting lists in millimetres and notes on ventilation and airflow. If your yard is tight, the same frame works with a shorter run, as long as the roost height and vent spacing stay the same.

Can I ask about my own flock before ordering?

Yes. Tell us what you keep, where you are and what you are seeing, and we will point you at the right feeders, grit or hardware. If it is easier to write it out, reach us through the contact page, and for the questions we hear most often, the questions page covers the rest.